- Home
- Buy
- Wood
- Antler
- Shanks
- Buffalo Horn
- Ram & Cow Horn
- Crosiers, Crops & Specials
- Basic Equipment
- Finishing
- Horn Bending & Bulking Equipment
- Books
- Links
Straightening Shanks
Always select and cut good quality shanks to straighten
If you cut your own shanks it is important that you select good quality ones to straighten, avoid shanks with severe doglegs and too many off-shoots as they will not make good shanks. Sticks with slow or gentle bends can be effectively straightened.
Remember that sticks will shrink a little as they dry out and season so cut them slightly oversize and leave them for at least a year before trying to straighten them. If you attempt to straighten green (unseasoned) shanks they will try to revert to their original shape so it is recommended that you allow all your sticks to be fully seasoned before straightening .
The pictures below show some of the jigs that I use to straighten shanks, they are simple, effective and inexpensive to make. I suggest that you use leather or cork to line the formers which will help to prevent damaging the bark on the shanks during the straightening process.
Winter is regarded as the best time to cut most of your shanks as the sap is low making seasoning the timber easier. Evergreen timbers such as holly are best cut when they have finished bearing berries or fruit as again the sap is at it's lowest during this time. Allow wetter timbers to season for a longer period, it is not recommended to try and speed up the drying process as there is a risk that cracks and splits may occur in the timber. Sealing the ends of the shanks with old varnish, paint or wax will reduce splitting as it slows down the loss of moisture.
Remember that you must have permission from the land owner before cutting any timber from woodland or hedgerows. A wide range of timbers can be used to make shanks, the most popular among stick-makers is Hazel because it grows fairly straight and is strong and light in weight. Other popular timbers are Ash, Blackthorn, Birch, Holly and various fruit woods.
Seasoned shanks can be straightened by wet or dry heat. Two of the most popular methods used are Hot air guns and steam heaters, I have shown an example of a simple steam heater, it is a wallpaper stripping device which can be obtained from most DIY stores. Electric hot air guns are also readily available from DIY stores and are very effective for heating shanks although you need to take care that you don't overheat and burn the shank.
I also recommend that you treat your shanks regularly with a propriety woodworm killer to prevent infestation, again it can be obtained from most DIY stores, follow the instructions on the containers.
Please contact me if you need any advice on any topics
Always select and cut good quality shanks to straighten
If you cut your own shanks it is important that you select good quality ones to straighten, avoid shanks with severe doglegs and too many off-shoots as they will not make good shanks. Sticks with slow or gentle bends can be effectively straightened.
Remember that sticks will shrink a little as they dry out and season so cut them slightly oversize and leave them for at least a year before trying to straighten them. If you attempt to straighten green (unseasoned) shanks they will try to revert to their original shape so it is recommended that you allow all your sticks to be fully seasoned before straightening .
The pictures below show some of the jigs that I use to straighten shanks, they are simple, effective and inexpensive to make. I suggest that you use leather or cork to line the formers which will help to prevent damaging the bark on the shanks during the straightening process.
Winter is regarded as the best time to cut most of your shanks as the sap is low making seasoning the timber easier. Evergreen timbers such as holly are best cut when they have finished bearing berries or fruit as again the sap is at it's lowest during this time. Allow wetter timbers to season for a longer period, it is not recommended to try and speed up the drying process as there is a risk that cracks and splits may occur in the timber. Sealing the ends of the shanks with old varnish, paint or wax will reduce splitting as it slows down the loss of moisture.
Remember that you must have permission from the land owner before cutting any timber from woodland or hedgerows. A wide range of timbers can be used to make shanks, the most popular among stick-makers is Hazel because it grows fairly straight and is strong and light in weight. Other popular timbers are Ash, Blackthorn, Birch, Holly and various fruit woods.
Seasoned shanks can be straightened by wet or dry heat. Two of the most popular methods used are Hot air guns and steam heaters, I have shown an example of a simple steam heater, it is a wallpaper stripping device which can be obtained from most DIY stores. Electric hot air guns are also readily available from DIY stores and are very effective for heating shanks although you need to take care that you don't overheat and burn the shank.
I also recommend that you treat your shanks regularly with a propriety woodworm killer to prevent infestation, again it can be obtained from most DIY stores, follow the instructions on the containers.
Please contact me if you need any advice on any topics
